Campania is the Italy of legend: and of reality at its most intense. The Amalfi Coast drops into the sea in a series of vertiginous cliffs and lemon terraces. Pompeii and Herculaneum preserve Roman daily life in forensic detail. Vesuvius broods over the bay. Naples feeds you from street corners and argues with you about everything, charmingly. The Cilento coast stretches south into a slower, quieter world that most visitors never reach.