Sicily defies easy description. Greek temples at Agrigento and Selinunte that rival anything in Greece. Arab-Norman cathedrals in Palermo and Cefalù. The baroque explosion of the Val di Noto: Noto, Ragusa, Modica: rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake in a single extraordinary burst of creative energy. And above it all, Mount Etna, still active, still reshaping the eastern flank of the island, producing some of Italy’s most distinctive wines from its volcanic soils.