Tuscany is one of Italy’s most celebrated regions: and one of its most rewarding to explore slowly. The cypress-lined roads of the Val d’Orcia, the wine estates of Chianti, the medieval hill towns of the Maremma, the Apennine trails of the Garfagnana: there is a Tuscany beyond the tourist trail that reveals itself only on foot, with time to spare and someone who knows where to look.