Umbria is Italy without the queues. Landlocked and relatively small, it packs in an extraordinary concentration of medieval towns: Assisi, Spoleto, Orvieto, Gubbio, Todi, Spello: each with its own character, its own art, its own reason to linger. The Apennines rise to the east in the Sibillini range, offering serious mountain walking. The Tiber and Nera rivers carve through dense forest. And under the soil, the finest black truffles in Italy wait to be found.